I used a bit of 11mm square finger jointed pine as a batten to lay out the lines and it seemed to give a fair curve.
The only tip I could give about this part of the process is to keep the jigsaw cut close to the line (especially the top of the side panel) as there isn't much room to fit things in when you flip the parts over to trace the copy for the other side.
For the fairing of the curves (convex and concave) I used a block plane. This is another magic tool. It's light and designed to be used one handed. It's blade is set at a lower angle than a regular plane making it good for working on plywood and end grain.
On the convex curves you may need to hold the plane on an angle to reduce the length of the sole and allow the blade to reach the timber. You may also need to set the blade out a little but careful not to set it too far as the gap will close up and tend to get blocked easier.
I needed to stop once during the process to sharpen the blade but all in all it went fairly quickly and I've now got myself a 2D PD. I'm a happy chappy.
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